Monday, 2 March 2015

Kyoto and a traditional Japanese inn

We had arranged to spend two nights in Kyoto: the first night in a traditional inn, a Ryokan, and the second in an Ibis. We took a train from Tokyo, the high speed Shinkansen, which has a top speed of 320km/hour (200 mph) although we never measured more than 270 km/hr en route. It's quite comfortable with 5 seats per row and plenty of legroom between the rows. 

 

As we boarded the train, John wondered why he could hear 'God save the Queen' (though it could have been the sound that precedes an announcement which is remarkably similar), until he spotted the photographers: Prince William was just leaving Tokyo and the photographers were on duty. He had a special green train.


The route between Tokyo is built up for most of the way.  Our route took is past Mount Fuji, we couldn't see anything through the cloud on this grey day. The map shows railway lines


On this train, most of the carriages are for reserved tickets, but five carriages are available for those who have not made a seat reservation. We were travelling on our rail passes, so were in the second group where there was plenty of room. 

This is our train


I had expected Kyoto to be small after seeing maps, but this was not the case - it's a big city. 

A taxi took us to the ryokan, were we were greeted, our shoes exchanged for slippers and the usual information collected. We were then shown around.  There was to be a big party that night in the dining room.

A

The little dolls are made for a festival on March 3rd, little girls' day. 

We were shown to our room, where we removed our slippers, so as not to damage the delicate mats on the floor. From now on, all service was to our room and the staff wore yukata. There is more that one entrance to the room: our entrance and another for the staff!



Tea was served and the owner came to welcome us to her home. 

N.B. No bed; this comes later. 

The bath has been filled and the water is warm under the wooden covers. 


Taking a bath is a social event in Japan, usually one washes first and shares a bath. The Rykoen has bath rooms with bigger baths for couples, so we booked in for that after we had eaten. 

After tea, we took a walk around the local area, this is an old district with narrow streets.  Clearly there is a parking problem and they double stack. 


From our walk.  The first shop is 'Paul Smith'




This market was enormous and teeming with people. There seemed to be no real theme to it. 

When we returned to the ryokan, we changed into our kimonos and tea arrived.


Dinner was served at 1930 on the dot.  This is the menu


By the time we were half way through, we were full, and just picking at the remainder of the meal. 

This is the first course


When we had eaten, the table was moved to the side and the bed appeared amd was made for us.  


We disappeared for our bath, more tea arrived and we slept very comfortably and soundly

In the morning and by appointment, staff appeared to clear the bed away and reinstate the table and, of course, bring tea. Then breakfast arrived


When we had finished, we changed back into our ordinary clothes, packed and set off For a day's sightseeing. 

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